O2 Sensor Harness Damaged Bank 1 Sensor 1

[Chestnut]

My check engine light turned on last Friday. Conveniently the Tazer allows you to read codes so i pulled over and read the code. It was a P0032 "HO2S Heater Control Circuit High (Bank 1 Sensor 1)". I got out checked where i thought the sensor might be and sure enough the harness rubbed on the fender line and broke one of the wires. I hit one of the non-broken wires with electrical tape and proceeded home.

Does any one have any tips for replacing O2 sensors? Given the wires are broken would it be OK to solder the wires back together? My thought was to remove the sensor get it on my bench and fix the wires. I'm just not sure if the wires conduct heat from the exhaust to the point where solder would melt. The break is about 18" away from the sensor

Should I use anti-seize on the threads when i reinstall the sensor? I have both the regular stuff and copper stuff.

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[PuddleJumper]

My check engine light turned on last Friday. Conveniently the Tazer allows you to read codes so i pulled over and read the code. It was a P0032 "HO2S Heater Control Circuit High (Bank 1 Sensor 1)". I got out checked where i thought the sensor might be and sure enough the harness rubbed on the fender line and broke one of the wires. I hit one of the non-broken wires with electrical tape and proceeded home.

Does any one have any tips for replacing O2 sensors? Given the wires are broken would it be OK to solder the wires back together? My thought was to remove the sensor get it on my bench and fix the wires. I'm just not sure if the wires conduct heat from the exhaust to the point where solder would melt. The break is about 18" away from the sensor

Should I use anti-seize on the threads when i reinstall the sensor? I have both the regular stuff and copper stuff.

id just get one of them solder crimps and call it a day. as long as the code clears and you secure it to where it won't happen again. Why bother anyone else with it? unless u got warranty.

 

[Lost1wing]

id just get one of them solder crimps and call it a day. as long as the code clears and you secure it to where it won't happen again. Why bother anyone else with it? unless u got warranty.

I wouldn't sweat it. My son ripped all four wires out of one of his o2 sensors. He used plastic crimps and wrapped it up with hight temp tape. He has been meaning to do the permanent repair for over a year now. I bet it becomes the permanent repair.

If you had a scan tool with mode 6 capabilities, you could verify your repair. If your check engine light comes back on, I wouldn't drive it until you can verify the repair.

 

[Chestnut]

id just get one of them solder crimps and call it a day. as long as the code clears and you secure it to where it won't happen again. Why bother anyone else with it? unless u got warranty.

I should have included in my original post that where the wire break is, access is limited. I could probably with enough time and effort fix the wire in place but it's likely that removing the sensor is going to be faster and easier.
Typed this and forgot to hit send. I removed the passenger fender and I might not need to remove the sensor now. I can probably fix the wires in place.

If you had a scan tool with mode 6 capabilities, you could verify your repair. If your check engine light comes back on, I wouldn't drive it until you can verify the repair.

Good to know that high temp tape will work.

 

[Lost1wing]

I should have included in my original post that where the wire break is, access is limited. I could probably with enough time and effort fix the wire in place but it's likely that removing the sensor is going to be faster and easier.
Typed this and forgot to hit send. I removed the passenger fender and I might not need to remove the sensor now. I can probably fix the wires in place.

Good to know that high temp tape will work.

The tape he used was 450f tape from an aviation parts store that I used to work at. I don't even know what you can buy at the auto store. 3m makes it and is self vulcanizing.

 

[OHJeeper]

Removing it is no big deal, but I would recommend an O2 socket like this:

It slips over the wires, but otherwise it's just a 7/8" socket.

To your question about anti-seize the answer is yes, but just a little bit on the threads - make sure you do not get it on the sensor part.

 

[OHJeeper]

Also, these are not particularly complicated - they are not passing signals like CANbus or anything just a simple 5V circuit so just repairing the wire should be fine as long as it passes voltage and doesn't have some unusual resistance.

Finally - if you end up wanting to replace it I would only use NGK brand on these motors. I would steer clear of Bosch for sure.. You can spend well over $100 on the MOPAR ones, or you can go to Rock Auto and get a NGK for around $60.

 

[Lost1wing]

Also, these are not particularly complicated - they are not passing signals like CANbus or anything just a simple 5V circuit so just repairing the wire should be fine as long as it passes voltage and doesn't have some unusual resistance.

Finally - if you end up wanting to replace it I would only use NGK brand on these motors. I would steer clear of Bosch for sure.. You can spend well over $100 on the MOPAR ones, or you can go to Rock Auto and get a NGK for around $60.

Funny you have mentioned that. I worked on a Camery a few years ago. It had a too lean code and my buddy had relaced Bosch sensors with New Bosch sensors. I bought Bosch sensors. They appeared to work, but I kept getting a too lean code. I ordered a set of NGKs, and no more code. Toyota originally came with NGK sensors.

 

[Chestnut]

If you had a scan tool with mode 6 capabilities, you could verify your repair. If your check engine light comes back on, I wouldn't drive it until you can verify the repair.

Just reporting back. Code cleared and so far hasn't come back. I don't have a mode 6 reader just the tazer. I haven't driven any distance yet but will this afternoon. Before after clearing the code it'd come back right away.

You can spend well over $100 on the MOPAR ones, or you can go to Rock Auto and get a NGK for around $60.

I saw threads about the Bosch ones being complete pants, i did find MOPAR sensors for $65 but figured fixing the wires was cheaper.

To add to the multitude of fender removals. I avoided drilling the plastic rivets by bending the inner liner out of the way and reaching up with a long needle nose pliers to release the white clips. Still broke 2 but that's better than breaking all 10 or 11.

 

[OHJeeper]

I saw threads about the Bosch ones being complete pants,

Yeah, my recommendation was from first-hand experience working on the older 3.8's and some of the newer P*'s. I tried Bosch to save money and was disappointed every time.

Same goes for fuel injectors - stay with the MOPAR ones and avoid Bosch like the plague.

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