Spinning wheel studs in aftermarket axles

[JTPatriot]

Need some ideas or guidance. Just replaced my stock axle shafts with some Revolution chromoly axle shafts. With these axles you have to reuse your old studs. Pressed them out and then pressed them into the new shafts. Put it all back together and 2 of the wheels studs just spin in the hub when I went to tighten the lug nuts, crap!

So, what ideas are there. Besides calling Revolution which will not be open till Monday and this is my only daily driver. Not sure replacing the stud will do it, hole in hub may be just oversized enough that it did not grip when the stud was pressed in. Or do I tack weld the stud which may void my warranty on the shaft.

Give me your advise please.

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[kevman65]

Did you check to make sure all the knurls were still there after you pressed them out of OEM flange?

It sounds like the knurls may be messed up on a couple of them.

 

[rharr]

I would start by replacing all the studs with new ones from a parts store. Then bolt the wheel on to the shaft before installing to make sure they those won't spin. Also pay the 40 bucks for the lug nut install tool, aka the bearing tool thing. It makes install easy and less chance of screwing up.

 

[JTPatriot]

Did you check to make sure all the knurls were still there after you pressed them out of OEM flange?

It sounds like the knurls may be messed up on a couple of them.

Unfortunately I did not. Got into to much of a hurry, I know better. Of course I can not find exact replacements in my area but I did find some that are close, Knurl is the same size along with the knurl length, over all length is a bit more but that can be cut down.

 

[kevman65]

Unfortunately I did not. Got into to much of a hurry, I know better. Of course I can not find exact replacements in my area but I did find some that are close, Knurl is the same size along with the knurl length, over all length is a bit more but that can be cut down.

Unfortunately, when pressing out and then in, the stud can twist and the knurls can get flattened.
I agree with above, replace at least all of them on the hub where they are loose. Be ready to do the other side.

 

[JTPatriot]

Unfortunately, when pressing out and then in, the stud can twist and the knurls can get flattened.
I agree with above, replace at least all of them on the hub where they are loose. Be ready to do the other side.

Kind of the way I was leaning. So odds are that the hub is probably ok as to be able to hold new studs? Even though the std spun in the hole.

 

[kevman65]

Kind of the way I was leaning. So odds are that the hub is probably ok as to be able to hold new studs? Even though the std spun in the hole.

Really won't know until you get it apart and check tolerances. But I'd put money on the knurls distorting before the flange on the new hub distorts.

 

[JTPatriot]

Really won't know until you get it apart and check tolerances. But I'd put money on the knurls distorting before the flange on the new hub distorts.

Ok, thanks for the quick replies and help.

 

[Rusty PW]

Never reuse old studs. The knurling get compressed when the stud is installed. When you reuse old studs. The knurling is already compressed so that it will not bite into the bore properly.

 

[kevman65]

Never reuse old studs. The knurling get compressed when the stud is installed. When you reuse old studs. The knurling is already compressed so that it will not bite into the bore properly.

That's what I was taught too, BUT, right on their webpage Revolution DOES say to reuse the studs.

https://www.revolutiongear.com/product/2020_current_jeep_jt_sportsport_soverland_m220_rear_axles_d44

 

[kevman65]

I'd be more concerned with THIS line " These will not fit the Sport S w/ MAX TOW " as the Rubicon and Max Tow have the wider axles.......

 

[JTPatriot]

I'd be more concerned with THIS line " These will not fit the Sport S w/ MAX TOW " as the Rubicon and Max Tow have the wider axles.......

They are the same length. I did check that and same spline count. I was thinking that the spline count may be different between the max tow and Rubicon. I do not know what carrier they use in the Max tow

 

[JTPatriot]

It's frustrating also, I was going to get new studs so I could keep the OEM axles as spares but I did not want to wait on the studs, plus we have 50 degree weather here this weekend and temps are supposed to start dropping into the 30's So I jumped on it. Lesson learned.

 

[bleda2002]

They are the same length. I did check that and same spline count. I was thinking that the spline count may be different between the max tow and Rubicon. I do not know what carrier they use in the Max tow

I believe Northridge said they were different length shafts though because of the e lockers.

 

[ShadowsPapa]

Unfortunately, when pressing out and then in, the stud can twist and the knurls can get flattened.
I agree with above, replace at least all of them on the hub where they are loose. Be ready to do the other side.

Only if you use a nut to draw them in.
PRESS them in, they go perfectly straight, no turning or twisting.
IMO, using a nut to draw them in is risky.
I press wheel studs in like the factory would do.

That's what I was taught too, BUT, right on their webpage Revolution DOES say to reuse the studs.

Doesn't make it right. We see a lot of that sort of bunk out there.

The splines on the stud/bolt is supposed to cut into the axle hub- it will, but will also flatten a bit and won't cut the same or as well in a second hub.
I use new ones. Always have.
It's too cheap and easy to not use new "studs" each time.

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