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Question on castor and geo correction brackets

Lambo77

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Good morning, just had a question for the forum. I recently installed an Aev 2.5 Dualsport rt lift on my 23 JTR with a synergy front track bar. I used the middle setting on the geometry brackets and after alignment my castor is 3.2(can post the whole print out if it helps)

question is do I need more? A couple buddies and a few posts on the forums recommend upwards of 5-6 degrees. Would putting it at max setting help? Would adding the Mopar extend control arms help as well?

It’s only been a couple days but I think it rides great! Very happy, just the steering wheel doesn’t return to centre as quick but I assume it’s due to the 5100 steering stabilizer.
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mpboxer

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I have the same lift and use the max setting. It gave me 6.5* of caster with no front pinion bind or vibration. Drives amazing. I also don’t plan to run a heavy front bumper or winch.
 

Hootbro

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Following.

I put the same lift also on my Rubicon but have yet to have it alignment checked.
 

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Good morning, just had a question for the forum. I recently installed an Aev 2.5 Dualsport rt lift on my 23 JTR with a synergy front track bar. I used the middle setting on the geometry brackets and after alignment my castor is 3.2(can post the whole print out if it helps)

question is do I need more? A couple buddies and a few posts on the forums recommend upwards of 5-6 degrees. Would putting it at max setting help? Would adding the Mopar extend control arms help as well?

It’s only been a couple days but I think it rides great! Very happy, just the steering wheel doesn’t return to centre as quick but I assume it’s due to the 5100 steering stabilizer.
you want at least 4.5 cus i believe thats factory. I run 6.8~7 and i'm a subscriber to more is better in this case.
 

KevinC

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To answer your question, yes you need more than 3.2. I would run the geo brackets at max and recheck. Longer Mopar control arms will help if you need a little more.
 

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Gizmo

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#1 , I had 5.5 degrees positive caster with just the extended MOPAR arms and MOPAR lift kit with a .5" spring spacer. Drove OK not great. #2, I later went with a Rancho Geo Bracket , OE lower arms and upper arms mounted in center hole and gained another .5 degree. Drove much nicer on any road because of the brackets not the added caster I'm sure. Can't leave well enough alone as I am a stickler when it comes to steering/tracking especially after lifting which leads to #3. I now have Core Crawl series lower front control arms with Rancho Geo brackets. That gave me a hair more caster but I like having Johnny Joints in both ends of the lowers and track bar. I learned many years ago any Clevite type of bushing allows the front axle to move ever so slightly which translate to slightly more steering correction when driving. I use Johnny joints in all lowers and in my last few Wranglers with MC duroflex for the uppers . Take note, the Core Crawler arms are about 1/4" longer than OE arms but are easy enough to shorten if need be. I just raised the upper control arm to the upper hole to reduce the caster a bit to compensate for the lowers being a 1/4" longer. With the added weight of the steel bumper and winch it feels really good . I will probably ruin that when I replace the .5" spring spacer with 1" thanks to the bumper/winch when I get a chance
 

ShadowsPapa

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More caster. Yes.

Jeep Gladiator Question on castor and geo correction brackets CASTER-CASTOR
Castor is what you take when you can't, well, you know........ comes from the castor bean.

Take note, the Core Crawler arms are about 1/4" longer than OE arms but are easy enough to shorten if need be.
The MOPAR LCAs from their lift kits are also .25" longer than factory stock, so I'd think that extra 1/4" would work out fine. But maybe not needed if he adjusts things in the brackets.
 

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Gizmo

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Yup I am well aware of the extended MOPAR arms being 1/4" longer like the Cores. Thats why I had to move the uppers to the upper of the 3 adjustment holes on the Rancho geo brackets with the Core arms. It has some bad pinion angle when left in the middle hole. I will eventually take a 1/4" out of the core arms so I can put the uppers back where they belong. My Daughters JL we run that with OE lowers now and uppers are in the top hole of the Rancho Geo Brackets like mine but she has a shorter tire and less lift. That still gave her more caster than when we had just the extended lowers on her JL . She says it is much more stable at highway speeds even with a good amount of wind with the Geo brackets over the extended MOPAR arms alone .
 
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Josh00333

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I have the AEV 2.5” lift and the Mopar longer arms, I’m at 6.2, drives well.

You need more, might be worth getting an adjustable set of upper or lower arms.
 

chorky

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I just swapped from the SD springs to the HD's today. I also have steersmarts front and rear track bar and sector shaft brace (but did not install the bearing) as well as teraflex rear geo-correction brackets. I have not checked since getting home today but previously I had zero bind or contact anywhere. Here are my measurements before with the SD springs and now with the HD springs. I don't think they even changed anything.

It drives perfectly - one finger if I really wanted to but that's not smart. Zero bump steer, zero wonder (except for the terrible ruts here). This is what you want to shoot for.

Jeep Gladiator Question on castor and geo correction brackets IMG_4560.JPG


I can check for any front drive shaft bind tomorrow since it did go up maybe half an inch at best.
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